Thursday 18 December 2014

The Many uses of a Towel



Experience has taught me to be prepared for anything that is possible to happen during a pool match. One of the many tools that I make a habit of bringing to my matches is a towel. I often bring two towels. One that is soft, to wipe my face and neck with. And another that has no threads or possibility of leaving anything on the playing surface, to clean the Pool Table with. You can purchase that latter towel at most large grocery stores or Walmart. They are the popular choice for drying dishes with. Let’s refer to that towel as the Tea towel.

I bring a soft towel to wipe my face and neck with if I am getting a little hot because of the room temperature or anxiety. Sometimes I bring that towel with me to the washroom and soak it with cold water to wash my face with. Most pool rooms don’t have towels for you and paper towels don’t feel as good on the skin as cloth does. This often cools my body temperature down and helps me feel better. Being cooler and more comfortable can assist me in making better decisions. Sometimes when I am sitting in my chair and need a little “alone time”, or I am just a little too emotional, I will close my eyes and cover my face with my cool/damp soft towel for a few seconds or maybe as long as a minute. This only happens on very rare but important occasions. However, it can be just enough to help me re-focus, find my confidence, my desire, and my inner power. Then I can get back to being the best me again.

A Tea Towel can be important to you in many situations during a pool match. You can wipe your cue butt and hands if your hands are little sweaty. You can clean the cue ball and/or other balls if they are too dirty. This will assist in preventing a skid from happening and help the balls roll and react the way they should for best control. You can apply Q Slick or whatever polish you might have to your towel. Then use the treated part of the towel to polish your cue shaft or pool balls. Sometimes the table cloth is very dirty and that can make it difficult to control the balls properly. Soak the tea towel with hot or warm water. Then wring out the water until the cloth is just very damp. Use this cloth to wash the table cloth clean. Do not use a cloth that can peel and leave threads on the playing surface, or is soaking wet. In fact this is definitely the very best way to clean a pool table that has worsted cloth, like Simonis or Championship. Don’t do this on a Snooker table or table with lots of nap. I recommend that you get your opponents approval before doing anything with the balls or cloth.

Being prepared is always a matter of choice. I have found that many people seldom or never prepare, but these are often the same people that complain about the conditions, or anything else that they can find to complain about. Others, are forward thinkers, and are interested in exploring possibilities and transcending the status quo. Those are the players who have the potential to reach their personal goals in their pool playing future.

Enjoy the Process!

Paul Potier

Friday 5 December 2014

A Road to Snooker Excellence


In the 1980’s I played a lot of Snooker. I was tired of always losing to the same guys that gave me 20 or 30 point spot and won my rent money. So I decided to change how I spent most of my time on the snooker table. I am about to share with you some of those things! First I started playing matches against myself. I would give my left hand a 50 point spot and play my right hand against my left hand. At first my left hand didn’t have a chance and it always felt awkward to shoot. I had a hard time just making a ball for a while. But after a few months my left hand was running 30 and 40 points fairly regularly and eventually I had my highest left handed run of 88 points.

Although that is a success story in itself the real improvement was in my confidence and patience. In fact every time I would change from left handed to right handed I would get this wonderful feeling of power, almost as if I became Superman with the transition. So as my left handed shooting got much better so did my right.

Another thing that I changed was the type of drills that I would do. For many years the main snooker drill that I spent time on was the line drill. But I realized that the most important part of the game, especially in close games, was the end game when the reds were all gone and we were just shooting the colored balls. So I designed my own drill. It was a progressive drill. I would put all the colours on their spots and take ball in hand anywhere I want.

 From that position I would try to run out the colours in order. If I missed any ball I would start over again. After succeeding in running all the colours I would respot all the coloured balls and add a red ball. I could put the red ball wherever I wanted but I generally put it near the black ball. Then I would put the cue ball wherever I wanted (ball in hand) and shoot the red, then a colour, then all the colours in their respective order. If I missed I would re-spot all the colours and the red ball and try again until I was successful. Once I successfully ran out from the one red and the colours I would place 2 red balls and do the same. Then 3, then 4, etc. BTW I only took ball in hand for the first shot of any run-out, all other shots were from playing position from the ball before it.

Within months of starting these new and different ways of spending time on the Snooker table my game elevated extremely fast and high. Of course these two new ways to practice were not the only changes that I made but they were a significant reason for my improvement. I was starting to win matches that I would never win in the past. My road to Snooker excellence was on a fast track and continued that way right through my pool years as well. And yes, I did win all my rent money and more back off of the same guys that used to give me 20-30 point spot. In fact they seemed in denial about the new me and it took a long time before they stopped playing me altogether.
I hope you find this article helpful in your own search for excellence!

Enjoy the Process!

Paul Potier www.paulpotier.com

Wednesday 19 November 2014

Choosing a Break Cue



How heavy should my Break cue be?

This is definitely the most asked question about the Break cue. Everyone seems to have a different opinion as to the best weight for a Break cue. Everyone wants to break the balls with great force to make the balls move around the table with lots of energy and hopefully result in making a ball. Some people think that a heavy cue will do the best job at that. Others believe that a lighter cue will allow you to get more cue tip speed, and that more cue tip speed will equate to a faster cue ball speed. We will all agree that a fast cue ball will give more energy to the object balls than a slower cue ball. So the question is which will generate more power, weight or speed?

I have experimented with all different types of break cues for more than 25 years. I've tried really light cues (16oz) and really heavy cues (22oz) and everything in between. Since 2004 my break cue has been the exact same weight and balance as my playing cue. I am very happy with it. A Break cue can be a very personal item. A big strong person might be able to generate more cue ball speed with a heavy cue, so a heavy cue might be best for them. On the other hand someone who is petite might also want a heavier cue because they might believe that they can get more power with a heavy cue. Perception can often be more of a powerful influence than logic or reality. Once a person is certain they know what they want I wouldn't attempt to convince them otherwise. I believe you should have fun trying out different break cues until you find the one that works best for you.

Why do I need a Break Cue?

A very good reason to own a break cue is to protect your playing cue. We know that the break shot requires us to hit the cue ball with great speed and force and that might damage our playing cue in many different ways. Also, If you like playing with a soft or medium tip on your Playing Cue then you should have a different cue to break with because it is best to have a hard or very hard tip to break with. Using the same cue to play with and break with is possible by changing shafts for each use. However this could become tedious and there are actually more reasons to have a separate cue to break with then just the tip. Although there are many cues on the market that are designed specifically for breaking many people just use a cheaper cue then their playing cue to break with.

Some people don't even bother buying a break cue, they just grab a house cue off the rack to break with. If you only play 8 Ball and only break by hitting the second ball then you really don’t need a Break Cue. I prefer to use my playing cue to break with when I hit the second ball in 8 Ball because the soft tip on my playing cue gives me more control than a hard tip when I use English.

Do as much testing as you can before choosing a break cue. Ask friends if you can try their break cue and ask them questions about it. I use a custom DeRoo cue to break with. It weighs exactly the same, and is balanced exactly the same, as my DeRoo playing cue (18.6oz). It has a 12.5mm maple shaft with a 12"taper and a very hard Water Buffalo tip. It has an Irish linen wrap and the butt is exactly the same dimensions as my playing cue, but without the extension. It has a steel into steel quick release joint. It stands at 57 3/4" tall. I am 5'7 3/4" tall. If I was any shorter I would prefer my playing cue and Break cue to both be 56"tall. I personally don’t like the phenolic tip and/or ferrule because I don’t like the sound and feel of it when it strikes the cue ball. However many people love their phenolic tip, so it’s a personal thing.

I hope this helps you in your pursuit of excellence!

Enjoy the Process!

Paul Potier

Thursday 6 November 2014

How Practicing Straight Pool Can Help Your 8 Ball game



Straight Pool or 14.1 Continuous is a game where you can shoot any ball you want and most shots are short shots. It is a game of patterns, and playing a lot of Straight Pool helps you understand and see the patterns in 8 Ball. For example, you will generally shoot a shot that will allow you to have many options for your next shot, instead of trying to get perfect shape for just one shot.

Most shots that you will play are shorter than half table and are normally pretty easy shots to make. From time to time you may play a combination shot or billiard but will hardly ever have to bank a shot. You will often have to break ball clusters and will need to learn where and how to hit these clusters to get the best results. Playing Straight Pool can help you develop good cue ball control, especially in a confined area.

When the pack is tight and there are lots of balls you will need to play some safeties but when the balls are spread open it is almost always a total offence strategy. So there are many skills needed to play great 8 Ball that you can learn to master by playing Straight Pool.

Convince a friend that you like to play Pool with to play a game of Straight Pool once a week. You can choose between playing a short game to 50 or just playing for a limited time frame of 1 hour or so. This way you are not taking up too much of your budgeted time allotment for pool every week. If you can't convince anyone to do that then do it by yourself. If you are already a pretty good player try playing your right hand against your left hand and give your weak hand a spot of maybe 25 points. Change the spot as your weak hand gets stronger. Setting goals is important in developing anyone's game. Be aware of your high run and set periodic goals to beat your current high run.

John Schmidt is a professional pool player whose nickname is Mr. 400 because his high run in Straight Pool is over 400 balls, without a miss. The most famous pool movie of all time was “The Hustler” starring Paul Newman as Fast Eddie and Jackie Gleason as Minnesota Fats. They were playing Straight Pool during their gambling matches together. Until the early 1980’s Straight Pool was the game of choice by professionals and most tournaments were Straight Pool. Willie Mosconi was 15 time World Straight Pool Champion and is reputed to have made the highest run in history of 526 balls without a miss. Google Straight Pool or 14.1 Continuous Rules.

Enjoy the Process!

\Paul Potier

Friday 24 October 2014

Perfect Step by Step Set Up to The Cue Ball


By: Paul Potier

In order to play pool at a high level you need to develop great skills at setting up to the ball as accurately as possible as well as great skills at controlling the cue ball with a perfect stroke. The equation of “perfect set up” plus “perfect stroke” should more often than not equate to a result of a “perfect shot”. This article will focus on how to set up to the cue ball as perfectly as possible.

Most players are very sloppy in how they get down to the cue ball. If you approach the shot with no intention of being as perfect as possible then you will probably reach your goal of not being as perfect as possible. Not everyone has to have the same system of setting up to the ball to be a good system. However, in order to set up perfectly every time, you will need a good system that you can depend on. Not setting up perfectly doesn't mean that you will miss the shot but it definitely contributes to many missed shots.

Develop a habit of setting up to each shot the same way every time with the same desire for perfection. Try lining up your cue ball to where you want it to be on the object ball when it contacts the object ball. This is called the "Ghost Ball Method" of aiming. Draw a line from the center of the cue ball to the center of the Ghost Ball and set your cue and your body up as accurately as possible on that line. I believe that the best way to ensure that you will line up straight is to get back behind the cue ball at least 6 feet, then slide into the line.

When getting down to the shot try getting the toes of your right foot and the cue stick on that line. Then place the cue stick as close to the cue ball as possible to determine the distance your body should be from the cue ball. Then get down to the shot by setting the rest of your body up in the most perfectly balanced stance to your already planted right foot. To double check if you are set up correctly look to see if the toes of your right foot are directly under your right hand and that your right hand is directly under your right elbow. Good balance is also important so make sure that you have some weight on your bridge hand (10-15%).

The rest of your weight should be distributed almost equally between both feet, but focused on the balls of both feet, especially your left foot.I am including 2 pictures to illustrate the point. The first picture shows me in my stance from the side. Pay attention to the relationship between my right elbow, right hand, and toes of my right foot. Actually in this picture my right hand is slightly behind the perfect position. It is not hanging down perfectly straight under my right elbow.



 My hand should be up forward approx. 1 inch to be directly under my right elbow and directly above the toes of my right foot. However my balance is very solid. Notice that my left foot is approx. shoulder width and approx. 1 foot forward of my right foot. My left knee is bent slightly forward of my shin and leaning slightly inwards towards my body.

This forces my weight to be forward and on the balls of my feet. My right leg is only slightly bent and the heel of my right foot is angled slightly inwards while my left foot forms a line that is parallel to my cue stick. The slightly angled right foot and the slightly forward and inside bent left knee assist in moving my hip out of the way of the cue stick, allowing free unhindered movement of the stroke.

In the second picture notice how close the cue tip is addressing the cue ball. Also notice that my left arm is bent. This helps me stay loose, allows my head and shoulders to get closer to the cue ball, and creates a closer relationship between both hands. My cue stick is as low and as parallel to the floor as possible.


So let’s recap the steps and other important ingredients to a perfect set up:

1. Line the cue ball up to the ghost ball

2. Slide into the shot from at least 6 feet behind the cue ball

3. Place the cue stick in the perfect line to the ghost ball and as close to the cue ball as possible

4. Plant the toes of your right foot directly under your right hand

5. Spread your feet shoulder width apart and move your left foot forward approx. 1 foot

6. Slightly bend your left knee forward and inside forcing weight on the balls of both feet

7. Move the heel of your right foot slightly towards you, creating a slight angle

8. Keeping your right leg almost straight bend at the hip over your cue

9. Bend your left arm slightly making sure there is some weight on your left hand

Note: These directions are for a right handed player for simplicity. A left handed player should follow these directions with the opposite body parts. Remember the most important details are the relationship between your right elbow, right hand, and toes of your right foot. The other important details are: the cue tip as close to the cue ball as possible at address and lining up accurately to the ghost ball. The actual stance is a matter of preference but I definitely recommend focusing on good balance for effortless power and effortless control.

I hope you enjoy experimenting with my recommended set up.
Enjoy the Process!
Paul Potier

* Paul Potier is now giving out free assessments. He has started an online instructional course through skype, all you need to participate is a digital camera to record one of your practice sessions.  From there Paul will watch and set up a meeting through skype to discuss your game. Paul can be contacted at paulpotier@Yahoo.ca

Thursday 9 October 2014

The Wagon Wheel Drill

By: Paul Potier  

In 1998 I was co-teaching Pool School in Paradise with Allison Fisher, Mike Massey, and Gerda Hofstatter. It was our second year of a wonderful 11 years of PSIP, but the first year that we held it in Vancouver. On the last day of PSIP 1998 I asked Mike Massey to show us a drill to help our students understand the tangent line. He showed us The Wagon Wheel Drill. I loved the drill so much that I have been showing it to all my students ever since. I saw that it was a great way for students to work on their new fundamentals and develop great habits towards focusing on method rather than results. So there are two goals when shooting each shot.  

The first goal is to make object ball X in the side pocket and try to contact each of the balls already placed on the rail or near a pocket, one at a time, as shown in the diagram.  

The second and most important goal is to focus on awareness skills before, during, and after the cue ball is struck. You must stay down and watch where object ball goes into the pocket, then focus all your attention on your cue stick, your elbow, your head, and your balance, before getting up and out of your stance. All the while not watching where the cue ball is going 

If you physically moved your eyes to follow the cue ball after it struck object ball X you couldn’t score the hit of the object ball you were trying to hit with the cue ball. You would need to shoot the shot over and over again until you accomplished both goals with each shot.  

To succeed in excelling in this drill you would need to develop good stroking abilities and understand the nuances of manipulating the cue ball off an object ball to travel forward or backward off the tangent line. I have included directions on how to set up the wagon wheel and how to do the drill, as well as a diagram.  

  • Place a ball on each of the diamonds and pockets marked; 3, 2, 1, A, 18, 17, 16, F, 15, 14, 13, & E, as shown in the diagram.  
  • Place an object ball where the black ball is shown on the diagram. We will refer to that object ball as X. This ball should be placed in a direct line from the center of pocket B to the center of pocket E and approx. half a ball from the line from diamond 7 to diamond 18, closer to pocket B. 
  • Place the cue ball in the center of the table but approx. 1 1/2 ball width closer to diamond #8. The relationship between the cue ball and object ball X should be such that pocketing X into pocket B can be achieved while also drawing the cue ball back to pocket the ball at pocket E, yet still giving as much angle as possible from the cue ball to X to pocket B. On most pool tables you would be able to check the accuracy of the cue ball to X by placing your cue stick over the center of both the cue ball and X. The line should be such that your cue tip would be pointed at the horn of the side pocket and your cue butt will be pointed at diamond #12. 
  • The objective is to shoot X into pocket B while controlling the cue ball to contact each object ball, one at a time. On the first shot you would shoot X into pocket B and control the cue ball to contact the ball on diamond #3. If you miss either pocketing X or contacting the ball on diamond #3 you would set it back up and try again. Once you succeed in pocketing X and having the cue ball contact the ball on diamond #3 you would take that ball away and reset the cue ball and ball X to then try to pocket ball and have the cue ball contact the ball on diamond #2, and so on until you have successfully contacted each of the balls from #3 to pocket E.  
  • On every shot try to stroke through the cue ball on its’ vertical center, not using any English. You will control the cue ball’s path off the object ball X by stroking through the cue ball on different positions on its’ vertical center, adjusting the power, and having the object ball X enter the pocket B at different angles. This exercise helps you improve your control of topspin, stun and draw. It also helps you to understand the tangent line. By changing the angle the object ball enters the pocket you can change the angle the cue ball leaves the object ball, thus creating a different tangent line 

The Power of Channeling Emotional Energy


By Paul Potier

A couple of week ago I was competing in the Spokane Open in Spokane Washington. I lost my second match to Rafael Martinez. I fought back strongly and won many matches on Sunday, and Monday to make the final 4 players in the tournament. My last match was against my good friend Brady Gollan from Kelowna, BC. I was up 5-3 but failed to make a ball on my next break. Brady won that game to trail 5-4. We were playing “winner breaks” and “rack for yourself” and after Brady racked the balls I leaned over to see where he was racking the 1 ball, just in case it was a different spot than I had racked it.

He made a ball on his break and won that game to tie me 5-5. After he racked the balls and went to grab his break cue I once again leaned over to see where he racked the 1 ball. Now Brady seemed upset and asked me if I was looking to see if I wanted him to re-rack the balls, when really I was just looking because I wanted information for my next break. Brady took total control of the match from that point on and beat me 9-5.

As soon as the match was over Brady apologized to me for getting upset. He knew me very well and had to know that I would never check the rack to see if he was doing anything wrong. In fact we had a conversation about just that situation the day before, so he surprised me when he got upset. I didn't make a ball on the break on my last 2 attempts yet I broke the balls exactly like I wanted to. The only reason that I leaned over to check his rack (while he was getting his break cue, thereby not disturbing him) was to see if he racked the one ball a little higher or lower than I had. Needless to say I stopped checking his rack after 5-5.

So, Brady got upset, but he turned that negative energy to get more focused and determined. He started really connecting with the table, the cloth, the balls, the lighting, the pockets and his cue. He quickly got 100% focused on the task at hand by channeling all the emotional energy into a higher level of confidence, desire, determination, and inner strength. During the last few games of that match I could see him entering that perfect zone that we all strive to find and I knew that I was in trouble.

So, I had unintentionally created a monster that trampled me to death. Oops, I guess I should have stayed in my seat!! I understand how this happens, as I have also found that perfect zone of 100% focus and determination many times over my career, and I have taught many of my students how to get there as well. Up until the point where Brady got a little upset he and I were both playing very well but not quite in that perfect zone of total connection and 100% focus. He continued that perfect focus and went on to win his next match 9-1 to meet with Rafael Martinez in the finals. With his focus still the same he did the unthinkable and double dipped the great Rafael Martinez to win the 2014 Spokane Open.

Many years ago (1990) while playing in the Manitoba 8 Ball Championship I was already in the B side and my opponent was playing excruciatingly slow. I was getting very upset and took a break to cool down. This was the first time that I was ever able to channel that negative energy into pure focus. I eventually won that match and tore through the B side like a hot knife cutting through butter to win the tournament. Since then I have experimented with channeling my emotions for many years and have been successful the majority of times. So, I definitely recognized it in Brady that day. I hope you have found this article useful, if not at least interesting and maybe entertaining.

Enjoy the Process!

Paul Potier

Pool Cue Tips



By: Paul Potier

One of the most common questions pool players ask me is what kind of tip I use and why. Until my first experience with layered tips, I didn’t like any tip that I had used in the previous 30 years of shooting pool. I only had experience with pressed leather tips like Elkmaster, French, and Blue Diamond. My first experience with layered tips was in the early 90’s, 1993 I think. I don’t remember who put it on my cue but I had a soft Moori tip and after just a few minutes of hitting balls with it I fell in love. I felt totally connected to it. I loved the soft hit and how the cue ball reacted to any english or draw exactly how I wanted it to.

I used a soft Moori tip on all my playing cues for the next few years before trying anything else. However after much experimentation with tips for my break cue and jump cue, I concluded that I needed exactly the opposite hit for them.

Both the break cue and jump cue had better results when using a very hard tip. It appears that the cue ball explodes forward with more energy when using a hard tip than a soft tip. It also jumps off the cloth easier, which makes it great as a jump cue tip. The only draw-backs when using a hard tip is that it deflects the cue ball more than a soft tip and a miscue is more likely to happen using a hard tip. Another concern when breaking with a hard tip is that it will make the cue ball jump off the cloth if struck downward with force. This could and sometimes does result in the cue ball jumping off the table. So I recommend a hard tip for the break cue and the jump cue. Many people use a phenolic tip on their jump cue and some even use it on their break cue. I don’t like phenolic tips because they feel and sound terrible. They are also illegal in some tournaments and organizations. I use a very hard Water Buffalo tip on my break cue and a linen based phenolic tip on my jump cue. Unfortunately no leather based product can make the cue ball jump as good as a plastic/phenolic composition so I am forced to use it on my jump cue.

Pressed tips vs Layered tips

It has been explained to me that pressed tips come in either of two types. One type is like the leather version of particle board. Made by shredding leather up then combining portions of that with a binding/glueing potion, then pressing it into a mold to form a tip. The other type is made by pressing a tool, much like a cylinder like cookie cutter, into a flattened piece of leather, then forming that plug of leather into a tip. A layered tip is made by stacking many thin layers of the same leather, usually pigskin, on top of one another then laminating or glueing them together to form a tip. Pressed tips are less expensive than layered tips but are not as consistent and are lower quality in general. Pressed tips are prone to mushroom out a lot and need much attention, i.e. shaping and sanding. Whenever I have a new Moori tip put on my shaft I use it for a couple of weeks until it mushrooms out a little then I have a tip expert reshape it on a lathe and harden the sides. After that I hardly ever have to do anything to it except chalk it.

I must admit that I don’t really know much about how tips are made, but I do know whether I like the hit or not. Since the 1990’s I have tried a number of other layered tips and still come back to the original soft Moori for my playing cue. I was lucky enough to purchase many soft Moori’s during my many trips to Japan and have enough for my own personal use for a few more years. Unfortunately Moori doesn’t make tips anymore. Moori tips are still available but I understand that they are not made in Japan anymore and I have been told that the quality is not as good as when they were made by Moori san himself. However the good news is that there are a few other Japanese tip makers who also make a layered pigskin tip offering different grades of hardness. Some of these companies are: Kamui, G2, Morakami, and Kamori.

In closing I highly recommend experimenting with the different hardness of a few layered tips to find the one that suits you. Enjoy the Process!

Paul Potier

Programming Yourself to Perform at Your Best



By: Paul Potier.

Even when we are feeling right and thinking right we still need to strengthen ourselves during onslaughts from our opponent. The 2 most important things that we need to strengthen are our confidence and our desire. Prepare a list of things that you can always go to that will help you focus on the right thoughts. When you are in your seat, waiting for your next chance at the table, bring the list out and go over it. Here are just a few examples of what's on my list:

1. Archery - This reminds me to pull back my cue stick slowly and pause on the backstroke before focusing my eyes on the contact point of the object ball, just before I stroke.

2. Be aware - This reminds me that my #1 goal should always be to learn, and I need to be aware of what I just did if I am to learn anything useful. I also need to stay down after stroking the cue ball long enough to watch the object ball go in the pocket and be aware of my balance, where my right elbow is, where my cue stick finished, etc.

3. Desire perfection - This reminds me not to get sloppy. I visualize in my mind the exact place the object ball will go in the pocket, and the exact spot where the cue ball will finish before I get down to make it all happen. I also visualize the exact paths the cue ball and object balls take to get to their final locations. Then I trust in my skills and believe in the picture that I drew in my mind.

4. Stalk every shot - This reminds me to set up to every shot from far behind the cue ball, going forward and almost sliding into the stance. Never approach the shot from the side or move backwards into the stance. (Video)

5. Have fun - This reminds me why I am playing this game. It is my passion, my release, my alone time. This helps me think good thoughts and smile inside. It helps me enjoy every second that I am here and not get stressed about things I can't control. It helps me erase the stress of results out of my system and provides me with the desire to enjoy the process of seeking perfection in my methods.

What works for me might not work for you. I recommend that you experiment with developing skills of awareness that will help you understand yourself. If you haven’t developed your own system of accurate learning techniques then try mine.

Enjoy the process!!

Paul Potier

The “Second Ball Break”





The power breakers hit the head ball with as much energy and accuracy as they can muster. However, unless you have acquired a great skill in controlling your cue ball while also creating high cue tip speed, you should probably not use this break. When playing on a bar box table, whether it is a a 7ft or an 8ft table, I have found the second ball break to be the most effective in making a ball, not scratching and controlling the cue ball.

I find the best way to approach this break is to place my cue ball on or just behind the break line and near the side rail. Use low outside English and aim to try and shoot the second ball into the back rail just before the corner pocket. The best way to do this is to imagine that the other balls  are nonexistent.

Don't try hitting it with "Break Speed" as your cue ball might fly off the table, or you might lose the draw you are attempting to get off the object ball, and possibly scratch in the corner pocket. After hitting the second ball, the cue ball should draw into the side rail halfway between the second diamond and the lowest diamond and bounce back into the center of the rack. This will often stop the cue ball from flying around the table and finding a pocket to scratch in. 

If this works the first time, that is, you didn't scratch and you made a ball, then remember exactly what you did and do the same thing next time you break. If it didn't work, then the next time you break make a small adjustment where you hit the second ball, or adjust using more or less draw and English as well at a different speed. Sometimes it is even necessary to break form the opposite side of the table.

 Once you figure out what works best on that table just keep repeating the same things. It is a good idea to practice breaking a few times on the table your match will be on. If you are only given a chance to practice for a minute I suggest the best practice is finding the right break. The break is the most important shot in almost every pool game. Accuracy and control are the two most important considerations when breaking. I hope this helps in your search for excellence in pool.

Adapting: The Most Underrated Skill



In 1984 I was at a Snooker tournament in Cartwright Manitoba. All the best Snooker players from Manitoba and a few from Saskatchewan were there. The venue was a small pool room with four 5’x10’ snooker tables. I don’t remember what brand they were but two of the tables had tight pockets and slow cloth and the other two had large pockets with fast cloth. The night before the tournament all the players and some spectators gathered together at the town banquet hall for dinner and to watch Cliff Thorburn (World Snooker Champion) perform an exhibition.

After the exhibition one of the players invited a few of us to a party in Cliff’s honour back at his motel room. During that party I had the pleasure of talking with Cliff for about 30 minutes. Never one to miss an opportunity to learn something, I asked him what he thought he did best in the game of Snooker. I really thought that he would say he was the best safety player as his nickname was the “Grinder." Or perhaps that he was the best high “break builder” as he was the first person to run a perfect 147 in a televised World Championship match.

 However he surprised me when he said that he believed he was probably the best adapter in the game of Snooker. I was not only surprised but also intrigued, so I asked him what he meant by that. He said that after all his years of experience traveling all over North America and Europe, and having to perform in very different climates and conditions, has convinced him that the most important skill to perfect was a way to adapt to those different conditions. Because they were not going to change for him.

He explained how easy it was for us to get frustrated and lose confidence when something such as the table conditions, atmosphere, opponent’s pace and so on were not as we were used to or what we like. He said that he refused to be a victim of circumstance and realized that the only way to do that was to learn and adjust. I’m not sure that these were his exact words as this conversation was 30 years ago, however the essence of his message was clear to me and this is what I learned from that conversation.

It was so clear to me and so powerful that I started my own “Search for Excellence” that night. I set out to be the best adapter in the game and am still working on perfecting those skills. My own experience of competing around the world for over 20 years has convinced me time and time again that Cliff Thorburn had it right. There is a powerful equation here that is true for pool, snooker, and everything else we wish to excel in and I would like to share it with you.

These are the exact steps that I follow to perfect my learning and adapting skills:

Step #1 – Set a goal

Step #2 – Desire it and believe in yourself

Step #3 – Focus on the method. Be aware of everything you have control over and don’t focus on what you don’t have control over

Step #4 – After each shot stay down long enough to become aware of what you just did and why it happened the way it did. Make learning the most important desire and goal.

Step #5 – Evaluate it, file it. If you performed it perfectly, copy and paste for the next time you shoot that shot. If you made an error in performance, evaluate it and consider what adjustment you need to make the next time.

Repeat, repeat, repeat!!

There is an old story about someone who was lost and wanted to find Carnegie Hall. He noticed a young man carrying a violin case so he asked this young man if he could tell him how to get to Carnegie Hall. The young man said “Practice, practice, practice.” Well, my experiences have taught me that the young man was wrong. He should have said, “perfect practice, perfect practice, perfect practice! I hope this will help you in your own “Search for Excellence”.

Enjoy the Process !
Paul Potier.

New Ventures for Paul

PSIP - The next Pool School in Paradise is being planned for the fall of 2015. The web site www.poolschoolinparadise.net will be up in the next few months to offer more information about PSIP.

Online Coaching Program – After much testing with great results Paul is ready to advertise his online coaching program. Now anyone in the world can receive private coaching from Paul. With the use of Skype and Youtube it is virtually as good as being in the same room with your coach.

Coaching APP for Iphone – Poised to launch this fall this app is designed to help anyone of any level with their pool game. After the initial launch some of the content will actually come from the students. The app will address common problems we all face in many different games and situations; physical, mental and emotional. The coach will offer insight and tips on how to improve skills and fix many problems.

For more information about Paul check out his web site www.paulpotier.com or contact him at paul@paulpotier.com